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IMPORTANT VINTAGE COUTURE, TEXTILES AND ACCESSORIES AUCTIONED AT DOYLE NEW YORK ON NOVEMBER 16, 2006

Featuring Couture from the Wardrobe of Actress Marisa Berenson to Benefit the UNESCO - Berry Berenson-Perkins Fund

On Wednesday, November 16, 2006, Doyle New York held an auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories. Offering an extensive selection of dresses, suits and ensembles, the sale also included important costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, as well as American, European and Asian textiles.

Marisa Berenson
A special section of the sale offered couture from the wardrobe of actress Marisa Berenson, sold to benefit the UNESCO - Berry Berenson - Perkins Fund. The Fund was established in memory of her sister, who was killed in the terrorist attacks on September 11, 2001. During the couture exhibition on Monday, November 13, Doyle New York hosted a cocktail reception in honor of Ms. Berenson and the Fund. To view photographs of this celebrity-studded event, click here.

Couture from the wardrobe of Marisa Berenson included a 1980s voluminous corduroy wrap coat by Alaia that sold for $1,920 and a statuesque wine charmeuse trained gown and train by Galliano that achieved $1,800.

PROPERTY FROM OTHER OWNERS
Highlighting the couture section of the sale were two extraordinary 1920s stenciled velvet coats by Fortuny that fetched $12,000 and $7,200. Of more recent vintage were an extravagant 1990s Galliano for Dior black and white chevron gown and a colorful 1960s iconic Campbell's Soup paper dress, both selling for $6,600.

Accessories were led by elegant handbags by Hermes. An Hermes brown cacao porosus crocodile Birkin bag sold for $24,000, and a stunning Hermes black crocodile Kelly bag achieved $13,200. Costume Jewelry featured a 1960s futuristic Cosmos pendant choker by Pierre Cardin that sold for $6,000 and a Gucci watch and cuff that fetched $3,300. Trunks were highlighted by examples by Louis Vuiitton, including a lot of two trunks that sold for $18,000 and a single trunk that sold for $6,600. Textiles offered a mid 19th century Suzani embroidery hanging that achieved $4,200 and a lot of four Fortuny curtain panels of stenciled cotton that sold for $3,900.


THE ESTATE OF JOE EULA
A special section of the auction offered drawings and watercolors from the estate of fashion illustrator Joe Eula. Highlighting the selection was a pencil on paper drawing depicting Jackie Onasss fitting with Halson that soared to $12,000 and a brush and black ink drawing with red highlights of Oliver and Marilyn Monroe The Prince and the Showgirl that sold for $3,600.

FUTURE COUTURE AUCTIONS
To maintain a fresh vision for couture in the auction market, Doyle New York is refocusing the Couture Department to offer only major single-owner collections when appropriate, rather than offering a century of fashion consigned by various multiple individual consignors at semi-annual sales. Clair Watson, the Director of the Couture Department, will continue with Doyle New York as Couture Consultant.

In 1983, Doyle New York was an early pioneer in the development and growth of the current global auction market for vintage fashion and couture with the acclaimed sale of Hope Hampton's collection followed by the couture collections of Gloria Swanson and Bette Davis, as well as gentlemen's wardrobes from the collections of James Cagney, Rock Hudson and Rex Harrison.

Through the years, Doyle has become the world's premier auctioneer of vintage couture with an international audience of both buyers and sellers participating in every sale. Couture auctioned at Doyle has realized record-setting prices and made its way to the costume departments of every major museum, the archives of prominent fashion designers, and the private collections of discerning individuals. The individuality of vintage style has been embraced by celebrities, stylists, fashion editors and designers, and has duly achieved runway status. Retro has become Contemporary and to meet the increasing demand, retail outlets for buyers and sellers of limited quantities of vintage fashion have grown to include luxury boutiques, department store chains and the Internet. Therefore, Doyle New York is looking forward to providing our vast experience and unparalleled expertise only to major couture collections in the future.

CONTACT
Clair Watson
Director, Couture Department
Tel: 212-427-4141, ext. 603
Email:
couture@DoyleNewYork.com

CATALOGUE
Printed Catalogue: Subscriptions Department, 212-427-4141, ext. 257,
subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com
View the November 16, 2006 catalogue

MEDIA CONTACT
Louis LeB. Webre, Vice President, Marketing and Media, 212-427-4141, ext 232, louis@DoyleNewYork.com
Images and interviews are available upon request.

A SELECTION OF AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS






Lot 1013
Fortuny Silk Velvet Stenciled Coat  
Italian, 1920s
Copper printed on dark chocolate in a double-branch pattern based on a 15th century Venetian design, moss stenciled rouleau trim along all edges and on tabs at sleeve ends, camel silk faille lining, labeled: Mariano Fortuny/Venise.
For textile see Deschodt and Poli, Fortuny, p.144.
Sold for $12,000





Lot 1014
Fortuny Gold Stenciled Black Velvet Coat
Italian, 1920s
With motifs based on 14th century Lucca textile, the three-quarter wrap coat with self button and loop closure at low left front, moss green and silver velvet piped edging and detail at dolman sleeve ends, black velvet faux button at each side front neckline and pleated copper grosgrain at back interior neckline, terra cotta silk faille lining, interior black velvet and copper grosgrain interior pocket, size M, silk
faille circular label: Mariano Fortuny/Venise.
Sold for $7,200





Lot 1192
Galliano for Dior Black and White Chevron Gown
French, circa 1990
Coupe de velours with Orientalist and totemic motifs overall, three dimensional standaway one shoulder collar with black eyelash lame border, the fitted bias body with asymmetrically draped panier trimmed down right side with same, trumpet hem, size 4, labeled: Christian Dior Boutique/Paris.

Sold for $6,600





Lot 1080
Campbell's Soup Paper Dress
American, 1960s
The sleeveless A-line dress printed with interpretive Campbell's Soup labels in red, white and black, the dress labeled: The Souper Dress/No Cleaning-No Washing-It's Carefree/Fire Resistant Unless Washed or Cleaned, with original envelope.
Sold or $6,600





Lot 1040
Dior Black Silk Faille Cocktail Dress
Automne-Hiver 1954
Made over a surplice closure foundation with tulle skirt, the double breasted hip length bodice pleated at sides and extending as large box pleat at center front to hem, shawl collar and short sleeves, controlled full pleated skirt, reinforced gazar petticoat, size 6, labeled: Christian Dior/Paris/Automne-Hiver 1954/46875.

Sold for $6,000





Lot 1196
Versace Couture Jeweled Cuff Evening Jacket
Italian, 1980s
Of silk ottoman, scarlet exterior and aqua lining, metallic gold braid trim, three-quarter modified swing, batwing sleeves with deep aqua cuffs embroidered with polychrome rhinestones and sequins in mask motif, one size, labeled: Gianni Versace Couture.
Sold for $6,000






Lot 1234
Lecoanet Hemant Polka Dot Mink Jacket
French, 1980s
Vertically pieced, marigold ground with black spots, opulent swing design with band collar, cuffed long sleeves, doubled peplum, one size, labeled: Lecoanet Hemant/Haute Couture/Paris/000482. Excellent condition.
Sold for $6,000






Lot 1198
Versace Jewel Encrusted Bondage Halter
Italian, 1993
The ground of tiger pattern worked in seed beads with applique and embroidered baroque motifs of variform gold colored rhinestones, gilt-metal beads and metallic gold couching, black and white cotton straps at back, size 4, labeled: Versace Atelier.
See Gianni Versace, Vanitas, p.126 for bolero version.
Sold for $5,100






Lot 1094
Balenciaga Chine Bubble Cocktail Dress
French, circa 1960
Of silk taffeta, black ground with warp print red roses, camisole bodice with wide shoulder straps gathered at front, trimmed with two horizontal self bands at empire and waistline concluding in bow at center front, gathered skirt with revealed harem hem net over tulle underskirt, tulle lining with silk gauze hem, size 4, labeled: Balenciaga/10 Avenue Georges V/Paris.

Sold for $4,800






Lot 1011
Gallenga Ruby Velvet Stenciled Evening Cape
Italian 1920s
Copper gold, repeat medallion with Medieval heraldic motifs, smocked yoke with rolled ruched collar, velvet knotted and rolled ties interspersed with metallic braid terminating in long silk fringed tassels, wine changeante silk lining, no size, unlabeled. Comprising blue and white striped cotton shirt with collar and cuffs trimmed with brocade ribbon, navy corduroy tunic vest with variform silver embossed ethnic buttons, two pairs of striped high waisted, narrow leg pants, one with cuffs, size 4/6, each labeled: Romeo Gigli.
Sold for $4,800






Lot 1156
Moschino Couture Black Dinner Dress and Jacket
Italian, early 1980s
The strapless sweetheart neckline fitted cocktail mini dress with white linen napkin and gilt-metal desert knife, fork and spoon applique at center front bodice, the collarless wool jacket with horizontal applique down each side front of same cutlery, applique knife at each cuff, padded shoulders, size 6, labeled: Moschino Couture. Comprising blue and white striped cotton shirt with collar and cuffs trimmed with brocade ribbon, navy corduroy tunic vest with variform silver embossed ethnic buttons, two pairs of striped high waisted,
narrow leg pants, one with cuffs, size 4/6, each labeled: Romeo Gigli.
Sold for $4,500






Lot 1024
Two Hermes Wool Knit Bathing Suits
French, 1920s
Each a sleeveless tank tunic over attached shorts, the first navy with creme bodice yoke and details, self belt, the second of gray and creme ribbed self stripe, royal blue wide belt, each size 6, each labeled: Hermes/Sports/Paris.

Sold for $4,500



PROPERTY FROM THE COLLECTION OF MARISA BERENSON SOLD TO BENEFIT THE
UNESCO - BERRY BERENSON-PERKINS FUND







Lot 1106
Alaia Voluminous Corduroy Wrap Coat
French, 1980s
Black wide whale, squared panel lapel, shaped kimono sleeve, the back gathered and elasticated at center back waist, slit pockets in side seams, one size, labeled: Alaia/Paris.
Property from the Collection of Marisa Berenson

Sold for $1,920





Lot 1108
Galliano Wine Charmeuse Trained Gown and Stole
English, contemporary
Camisole bodice with spaghetti straps, the skirt fitted to knee with applied bias fishtail hem trained in back, rectangular stole, size 4, labeled: John Galliano/Paris.
Property from the Collection of Marisa Berenson

Sold for $1,800


ACCESSORIES




 

Lot 1480
Hermes Brown Cacao Porosus Crocodile Birkin Bag
French
Shiny, gold hardware, lock and key sheath, 35 x 26 x 18 inches,
labeled: Hermes/Paris/Made in France and blind stamp I.

Sold for $24,000





Lot 1474
Hermes Black Crocodile Kelly Bag
French
Gilt-metal hardware, optional shoulder strap, lock and key sheath, 32 x 24 x 11 cm, labeled: Hermes/Paris/Made in France and blind stamp B 19X.
Sold for $13,200





Lot 1461
Hermes Baby Black Crocodile Baby Kelly Handbag with Pave Diamond Closure Pin
French
18 kt. gold hardware, 7 diamonds approximately .25 cts., shoulder strap, 20 x 15 x 91/2 cm, labeled: Hermes/Paris/Made in France and blind stamp U.

Sold for $12,000


COSTUME JEWELRY





Lot 1362
Pierre Cardin Cosmos Pendant Choker
French, 1960s
Linked silver domed discs applied asymmetrically to larger discs, 16 inches, single strand 10 inch pendant concluding in 3 inch diameter medallion, marked: Pierre Cardin.

Sold for $6,000






Lot 1377
Gucci Watch and Cuff
Italian, 1970s
Of rigid sterling with royal blue enamel bands, the watch with
rectangular white face, 7 1/2 x 1 inch, the hinged cuff, 7 1/2 x 1 1/2
inches, each marked: Gucci/Italy.

Sold for $3,300


TEXTILES






Lot 1563
Suzani Embroidery Hanging
Mid 19th century
Beige linen ground with burnt sienna, fuschia and blue foliate design in silk threads, pieced in five sections, 8 feet x 5 feet.

Sold for $4,200






Lot 1518
Fortuny Stenciled Cotton Curtains
Italian
Comprising four curtain panels pleated at top edge, pewter on celadon motif of scrolling foliage reproducing classic decorative themes of 16th century Italy, cotton twill lining, 98 x 48 inches.
Sold for $3,900


TRUNKS



 

Lot 1582
Two Louis Vuitton Trunks
Each monogram canvas, LV stamped trim, brass hardware, red and navy diagonal painted stripe with monogram L.B.M., the first with three drawers, each separated by twelve smaller compartments, 45 x 25 x 15 3/4 inches, labeled: Louis Vuitton/Paris 70 Champs Elysees/Nice 4 Jardin Publis/London 149 New Bond Street/Modele Depose, the second with broken lock, unable to inspect interior, 25 1/2 x 43 x 21 1/2 inches.
Sold for $18,000






 

Lot 1583
Louis Vuitton Trunk
Monogram canvas, LV stamped leather trim and handles with front belt latch, brass lock, key and hardware, interior padding with two linen trays, each lateral side exterior stencil CSP Broadmoor Cole, 23 x 43 x 22 1/2 inches, lock number 702059, labeled: Louis Vuitton/Paris 70 Champs Elysees/149 New Bond St. London/Nice 2 Ave de Verdun/Cannes 10 Pl.des Belges/Vichy Rue du Parc.
Sold for $6,600




FASHION ILLUSTRATION




 

Lot 1277
Joe Eula
Jackie O Fitting with Halston, 68th St.
Signed Eula
Pencil on paper
24 x 18 inches

Sold for $12,000






 

Lot 1259
Joe Eula
Olivier and Marilyn Monroe The Prince and the Showgirl
Signed Eula
Brush and black ink on torn brown paper with red highlights
32 x 24 inches

Sold for $3,600