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EARLY CHANEL EVENING DRESS SELLS FOR $42,000 AT DOYLE NEW YORK ON APRIL 11, 2006

Auction Showcased a Century of Important Vintage Couture by the World's Great Designers

Also Featured Were Luxurious Assessories, Costume Jewelry and Textiles

On Tuesday, April 11, 2006, Doyle New York held an auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories representing the vitality of international historical fashion spanning two centuries.  Offering an extensive selection of dresses, suits and ensembles, the sale also included important costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, as well as American, European and Asian textiles.

Highlighting the sale was a blue silk 1926 ombre fringe dress from Chanel that soared past its pre-sale estimate of $5,000-7,000 to reach $42,000.  The dress was similar to an example in the Costume Institute’s tautly edited ‘Chanel’ (p.187).  Also inspiring competitive bidding was a 1993 Lacroix Carnivale inspired two-piece gown that sold for $10,800, against a pre-sale estimate of $4,000-6,000. Another noteworthy offering was an elegant Fortuny cinnamon silk Delphos tea gown that sold for $7,800.  Of more recent vintage were a 1968 Ossie Clark python coat that sold for $3,600 and a 1992 Chanel Couture olive changeante silk dress that sold for $3,600.  Property being offered to benefit the Grenville Baker’s Boys and Girls Club included a Mainbocher shredded point d’esprit cocktail dress that sold for $3,300.

Fine accessories included a selection of handbags by Hermes, including a blue roi crocodile Kelly bag that sold for $19,200; a cyclamen ostrich Birkin bag that sold for $16,800; and a tan togo leather Birkin bag that sold also 16,800.  Costume jewelry was highlighted by a futuristic 1960s Coppola e Toppo faux rhinestone spray suite comprising a collar and two bracelets that fetched $11,400. Also notable was a 1950s Chanel gilt-metal filigree clasp belt formerly in the collection of Diana Vreeland that achieved $3,600. Textiles included an extravagantly embroidered Chinese altar cloth that sold for $6,000.  Among the selection of Louis Vuitton trunks were two handsome wardrobe trunks that sold for $3,900 each.



NEXT AUCTION
Fall 2006
 
LOCATION
Doyle New York, 175 East 87th Street, New York, NY 10128

CONSIGNMENTS ARE CURRENTLY BEING ACCEPTED
To have your couture, costume jewelry, textiles and accessories evaluated for possible consignment in the Couture, Textiles and Accessories auction, please contact:

Clair Watson
Director, Couture Department
Tel: 212-427-4141, ext. 603
Email:
couture@DoyleNewYork.com
 
CATALOGUE
Printed Catalogue: Subscriptions Department, 212-427-4141, ext. 257,
subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com
View the online catalogue

MEDIA CONTACT
Louis LeB. Webre, Vice President, Marketing and Media, 212-427-4141, ext 232, louis@DoyleNewYork.com
Images and interviews are available upon request.

A SELECTION OF AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS






Lot 12
Chanel Blue Silk Ombre Fringe Evening Dress and Boa  
French, 1926
Of blue silk crepe georgette, the sleeveless tunic length chemise with 17 inch long pale to indigo blue ombreed fringe at hip height hem, the boa with same fringe sewn to gently curved picot edged crepe georgette panel 68 x 5 inches, size 6, no label.
See Chanel, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2005 pp.186-187 and Chanel, Jean Leymarie, Rizzoli 1987, p.99 for Edward Steichen photograph of Marion Morehouse in this dress.
Sold for $42,000





Lot 145
Lacroix Carnivale Inspired Two-Piece Gown  
French, Summer 1993
Comprising a scarlet silk blouse with black block print in primitive abstract motif overall, draped from drop shoulder to center front deep V-neckline with zipper closure, full elbow length sleeve with self tie at cuff, black organza lining, and a single seamed skirt of wide horizontal black and ivory stripes in basket weave silk gazar, self backed and crinoline lining, the 54 inch wide length asymmetrically draped to molded cummerbund waistband worked in polychrome silk threads with Peruvian style motifs, size 6, labeled: Christian Lacroix/Paris/9071.
Sold for $10,800





Lot 13
Fortuny Cinnamon Silk Delphos Tea Gown  
Italian, 1930s
The finely pleated sleeveless design with cord run through ivory, black and brick red striped Venetian glass beads, labeled: Fortuny Depose/Made in Italy/Fabrique en Italie.
Sold for $7,800







Lot 103
Ossie Clark Python Coat  
English, 1968
One of only four made (Julie Christie and International Velvet being two of the other three) by Mr. Kent in Streatham, the bodice obliquely pieced back and front, diagonal zippered collar, wide band waist with self buckle belt, vertically pieced full length skirt, long set in sleeves with deep cuffs,  taupe satin lining, size 4, labeled: Ossie Clark/Made in London/England.
This was shown in FIT's 'London's Fashion' Show, October 2001 - January 2002.
Sold for $3,600






Lot 144
Chanel Couture Olive Changeante Silk Dress  
French, Winter 1992
The sleeveless bodice with scoop neckline at front, V at back, narrow sewn down vertical tucks from applied self band with bow above bustline to applied self waistband, gilt-metal wheat motif Chanel buttons at back bodice, full controlled pleat skirt, horsehair petticoat, stiffened tulle underskirt, silk slip with horsehair hem, size 6, labeled: Chanel, tape label 67359.
Sold for $3,600






Lot 57
Mainbocher Shredded Point D'Esprit Cocktail Dress  
American, 1950s
Of hibiscus pink silk shantung, the sleeveless boned bodice with sweetheart neckline and slender skirt overlaid with coral point d'esprit self applique with rows of raw edged cut out leaf shaped flounces, size 6, labeled: Mainbocher Inc.
Sold for $3,300






Lot 69
Bill Blass Oriental White Silk Flower Gown  
American, 1960s
Vanilla gazar empire A-line gown with low neck and set in long sleeves applique in a scrolling pattern denser at deep hem and neckline with vanilla  millinery flowers accented by rhinestone and faux pearl stamens, trailing organdy ribbon sash to tie in back, size 6, labeled: Bill Blass for Rentner.
Sold for $3,300





HANDBAGS






Lot 314
Hermes Blue Roi Crocodile Kelly Bag  
French, contemporary
Palladium hardware, lock and key sheath, optional shoulder strap, 28 x 21 x 12 cms marked: Hermes/Paris/Made in France and blind stamp 8 X I.
Sold for $19,200
 




Lot 326
Hermes Cyclamen Ostrich Birkin Bag  
French, contemporary
Palladium hardware, lock and key sheath, 35 x 26 x 19 cm, marked: Hermes/Paris/Made in France and blind stamp 21 H.
Sold for $16,800
 




Lot 321
Hermes Tan Togo Leather Birkin Bag  
French, contemporary
Souple, creme top stitching, gilt-metal hardware, lock and key sheath, 33 x 28 x 10 1/2 cm, marked: Hermes/Paris/Made in France and blind stamp 34 C E.
Sold for $16,800
 




COSTUME JEWELRY


 

Lot 210
Coppola e Toppo Faux Rhinestone Spray Suite  
Italian, 1960s
Comprising a collar and two bracelets of faceted clear bissected plastic beads disgorging multiple irregular fine wire appendages, each applied with a round and a square bissected bead, the necklace 15 x 7 1/2 inches, the bracelets 7 1/2 x 5 inches, marked: Made in Italy by Coppola e Toppo.
Sold for $11,400
 



Lot 215
Chanel Gilt-Metal Filigree Clasp Belt  
French, 1950s
The medallion in Renaissance style set with faux pearls and ruby stones centered by emerald green pate de verre, the belt of curvilinear overlapping discs elasticated at rear, 27 inches, marked: Chanel/***/Made in France.
Provenance:
Property from The Estate of Diana Vreeland, Sotheby's, April 19th, 1990.
Sold for $3,600



Lot 214
Yves Saint Laurent Cross Pendant Necklace  
French, late 1970s
Hammered irregular gilt-metal nuggets with four inch cross pendant, 16 inches, marked: Yves Saint Laurent/Paris.
Sold for $3,000








Lot 209
Coppola e Toppo Jabot Necklace  
Italian, 1960s
The faceted beads in ombre shades of amber, four strands culminating in a malleable 6 1/2 x 3 inch vertical ruffle, 16 x 2 inches, marked: Made in Italy.
Sold for $2,880
 






Lot 178
Coro Adorsed Seahorse Duette  
American, 1950s
Double pin, green enameled silver with pave set rhinestones and baguette head fins, 4 x 2 inches, marked: Coro/Pat.no.?.
Sold for $2,200
 



TEXTILES






Lot 344
Chinese Embroidered Altar Cloth  
20th Century
A fine example of Forbidden Stitch embroidery in red, blue, purple and gold silks, a floral motif overall on beige silk ground with silk backing, central medallion features dahlias, bats, peonies, koi and other wedding symbols with couched gold metallic embroidery outline, rounded corners, 43 1/2 x 61 inches.
Sold for $6,000
 



TRUNKS




 

Lot 398
Louis Vuitton Wardrobe Trunk  
Monogram canvas, LV stamped leather trim, leather handle, brass corners and studded, wood band, locks and fittings, top stenciled with L.N.R., interior with padded velvet lid, metal fixtures at top for hangers, two wooden partitions, two lidded compartments on interior of door, 6 hangers, 21 1/4 x 35 3/4 x 11 1/4 inches, interior label: Louis Vuitton 842738 Paris/70 Champs-Elysees/149 new Bond St./London/Nice/2 Jardin Albert Premier/Vichy/Rue du Parc.
Sold for $3,900









Lot 399
Louis Vuitton Wardrobe Trunk  
Monogram canvas, LV stamped leather trim and handle, brass corners, studs, locks and fittings, wood bands, interior with metal fixtures at top for hangers, one wooden partition, four drawers and compartments on right side all with leather handles stamped L. Vuitton, one compartment with leather snap latches, linen divider, 5 hangers, 21 1/2 x 39 1/2 x 12 3/4 inches, interior label: Louis Vuitton/Paris/70 Champs Elysees/Nice/12 Av. de Verdun/Cannes/10 Rue des Belges/Vichy/1 Rue du Parc/London/149 New Bond St./Modele Depose.
Sold for $3,900