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SELECTION OF AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS
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Lot 40
Worth Deep Iris Coupe des Velours
Silk Chiffon Gown
French, circa 1896
Serpentine floral and foliate motif, the fitted bodice with applique
banded purple dyed Chantilly lace trimming the neckline and overlaying
sleeve cap concluding in steel bead tassels front and back, embroidered
with sequin, seed and faceted beads, ecru Alencon lace bib, band
collar, glove length balloon sleeve with elbow shaped cuff, pleated
chiffon cummerbund waist with passementarie embroidered frog medallion
at center back with silk braid ball and seed bead tassles, the trained
bell-shaped bustle skirt with hip stitched pleats, double banded
Chantilly lace inserted with applique at hem, rouched chiffon trimming
on hem of lilac crepe back satin underskirt, size 8, labeled: C.Worth
and numbered 85854.
Estimate: $10,000-12,000
This gown was given to the elderly consignor by her great aunt,
a textile teacher on the West Coast, who in turn was given it by
the mother of one of her pupils for use in a lesson. The information
that accompanied the gown was that it belonged to Louisa Morgan
Satterlee, the eldest daughter of of J. Pierpoint Morgan.
What is known apart from the fact that she regularly travelled to
Paris to be fitted by Worth, is that Louisa was born on March 10,
1866 and therefore she would have been in her early 30's when wearing
the gown. In addition she is described as tall and rather large
boned. Both facts are consistent with the style and size of this
beautiful design.
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Lot 39
Paul Poiret Garnet Silk Velvet
Robe Shakespeare
French, mid 1920s
Referencing the medieval, dropped peaked waistline girded by plaited
metallic gold cord concluding in velvet pompom, set-in fluted sleeve
with cuff point revealing gold lame lining, bodice draped to center
front seam, deep V-neckline front and back, gold lame modified shawl
collar overlapping to faux bow at back, gathered skirt with handkerchief
hem piped in gold lame, unlined, size 6, labeled: Paul Poiret a
Paris and linen tape: 72993/Mme.White/Helene/R. Shakespeare.
Estimate: $4,000-6,000
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Lot 36
Fortuny Stenciled Silk Velvet Aba
Italian, 1920s
Of dark green, gold and silver in a Renaissance inspired large scale
thistle and pomegranate design, lined in taupe silk, unlabeled.
Estimate: $8,000-10,000
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Lot 51
Christian Dior Fan Asymmetrical
Gown
ZigZag Collection, French, 1948
Of black wool crepe, the draped surplice skirt with dramatic wing
paniers on the left side, the V-neckline bodice with flip back lapel,
short kimono sleeve with gusset, dusty rose voided silk velvet with
floral pattern inset applied as modified bra over double layered
tulle boned foundation, gros de Londres bias cummerbund, size 8,
labeled: Christian Dior/Paris/Made in Paris.
This dress was shown at the Costume Institute Christian Dior show
in 1997.
See Keenan, Dior in Vogue, p.51 and Golbin, Fashion Designers, p.55.
Estimate: $6,000-8,000
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Lot 49
Balenciaga Black Silk Tissue
Taffeta Dress
French, circa 1951
The bodice girded with draped panel fastening at right back, wide
draped straps, the malleable multiform airy bubble skirt self doubled
waistline-to-waistline along center of shirred panel insert at hem
creating a modified harem hem, large self-doubled panier pouf bow
at right front waist, size 6, labeled: Balenciaga/10 Avenue George
V Paris/ and tape label: H0537.
See Caroline Rennolds Milbank, Couture, p.322. for same with different
bodice.
Estimate: $2,500-3,500
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Lot 84
Chanel Chevron Tweed Dress Suit
French, 1960s
In marled autumnal copper tones flecked with dove gray, the sleeveless
princess line short dress with ruffle peplum at hip, faux pocket
flap either side on bodice, the cardigan coat with narrow collar,
four flap patch pockets, each edge with cast-off stitch trim in
self yarn, beige silk lining, brown buttons with gilt-metal centers,
size 6, labeled: Chanel, and tape label: 37138.
Each in very good condition.
Estimate: $3,000-5,000
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Lot 292
Yves Saint Laurent Men's Garnet
Leather Pants and Silk Cossack Shirt
French, 1970s
The pants pleated, 32 inch waist, the shirt piped in scarlet, band
collar with surplice closure, 42 inch chest, each labeled: Yves
Saint Laurent/rive gauche.
The first with some discoloration along edges, the second excellent.
Estimate: $900-1,200
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Lot 316
Stephen Sprouse Handpainted Cop's Jacket
American, 1984
Made for the Andy Warhol Factory, white leather with day-glo crosses,
male and female symbols, dated, size 42 inches, unsigned.
Good condition, sleeve ends worn, discolored ground.
Estimate:$1,800-2,500
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Lot 154
Sprouse Sequinned Rock Band Mini Dress
American, 1988
Strapless elasticated off-the-shoulder neckline with turned down
panel, day-glo yellow ground with polychromatic label motif, embroidered
overall with clear plastic sequins, size 6, labeled: Stephen Sprouse.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$900-1,200
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Lot 160
Versace Couture Bondage Dress
Italian, Fall 1992
Black wool and silk challis, the two triangular breast panels with
leather cuffs and Medusa button secured by channel stitched leather
and fabric straps girding torso, pencil skirt with leather waistband
and Medusa medallion, size 8/10, labeled: Gianni Versace/Couture.
Excellent condition.
One of only eight made, this lot is sold with the original Versace
catalog Collezione Donna Autunno-Inverno 1992-1993 photographed
by Irving Penn and is featured adorning Naomi Campbell, p.101 and
113.
Estimate:$1,800-2,5000
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Lot 252
Hermes Rouge H Crocodile
Birkin with Pave Diamonds
Souple, palladium hardware, original covered lock and key sheath,
after market 166 pave diamonds on front of each 14 kt. white gold
closure plate and 310 pave diamonds on additional lock in H motif,
G color, VS clarity, total 14 cts., 35 x 25 x 18 cm, marked: Hermes/Paris/Made
in France.
Estimate: $30,000-40,000
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Lot 261
Paulette Bottle Handbag
French, 1950s
Of black leather with gilt-metal trim and cork faux stopper, the
interior with mirror and two pockets, 14 x 6 inches, labeled: Paulette/Made
in France.
Very good condition, some tarnish and mirror discolored.
Estimate:$700-900
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Left
to right
Lot
337
Pucci Vivara Rosenthal
Vase
Italian, 1960-77
Porcelain cylinder, pinks, grays, metallic gold and gray, with Emilio,
3 1/2 x 7 1/4 inches, marked: Emilio Pucci/Rosenthal/Germany/Studio
Line. Excellent condition.
Estimate:$1,200-1,500
Lot
339
Pucci Palm Leaf Print Rosenthal
Vase
Italian, 1960-77
Porcelain cylinder, orange, reds and blues, with Emilio,
3 1/4 x 14 inches, marked: Rosenthal/Germany/Studio Line.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$1,200-1,500
Lot
338
Pucci Stylized African Print Rosenthal
Vase
Italian, 1960-77
Porcelain cylinder, polychromatic harlequin pattern with Emilio,
2 1/2 x 9 1/4 inches, marked: Rosenthal/Germany/Studio Line/7820.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$900-1,200
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Lot 334
Pucci Wool Carpet
Italian, 1969-70
In the Vivera pattern, from the original carpet collection, blue
water tones, manufactured by Dandolo & Primi, hand-tufted wool,
signed twice Emilio in wool, 6 x 9 feet.
In good condition, some spotting, one area at one signature crushed.
This is the original carpet used in the main room of the flagship
boutique on 64th and Madison.
Estimate:$8,000-12,000
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Lot 382
Yves Saint Laurent La Vilaine Lulu Comic
Book
Claude Tchou, 1967, No. 000143.
His only foray into publishing, the story is a satire on the entourage
surrounding a couturier in the 1950s. Only 500 of this original
deluxe version were published.
Very good condition, one page with small tear.
Estimate:$700-900
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Lot 383
Line Vautrin Convex Sun Mirror
France, 1960s
Talosel with amber and black mirrored glass, 12 inches diameter,
1 inch high, signed to verso: Line Vautrin X.
Good condition, some glass cracked and missing.
See cover Patrick Mauries, Line Vautrin: Miroirs for same in blue.
Estimate:$6,000-8,000
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Lot 394
Roger Jean-Pierre Wide Collier and Chandelier Earclips
French, circa 1961
Round faceted prong set rhinestones, rivoli cut citrines, gilt-metal
chain links, 5 x 16 inches, marked: France.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$2,500-3,500
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Lot 456
Chanel Gilt-Metal Fish Skeleton
Belt
French, 1993
33 inches, marked: Chanel/Made in France/93.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$700-900
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Lot 429
Gripoix for Chanel Byzantine Medallion
Bracelet
French, 1983
Six twisted strands of faux baroque pearls, the square gilt-metal
medallion inset with rhinestones and cross motif in red and green
pate de verre, 7 x 2 inches, marked: Chanel/1983; Together with
similar oval Chanel earrings. 1 1/2 inches, marked: Chanel/Made
in France.
The first in excellent condition, one rhinestone missing from earring.
Estimate:$900-1,200
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Lot 404
Trifari Butterfly Collar
American, 1960s
Gilt-metal wire with large red enamel butterfly pendant, 16 inches,
pendant 4 x 3 1/2 inches, marked: Trifari.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$300-400
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Lot 451
Iradj Moini Articulated
Opulent Flower Collar
Five flowers with petals of turquoise cabochons
and clear and citrine faceted rhinestones, centered by same and
mauve glass cabochons, antiqued silver metal chain, wire and prong
set closed settings, 3 1/2 x 18 inches, marked: Iradj Moini.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$2,500-3,500
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Lot 470
Extraordinary Appenzell Lace Commemorative Handkerchief
Switzerland, 1850-1875
Masterfully embroidered in whitework and almost totally reversible,
most probably in honor of the royal wedding of Edward, Prince of
Wales, to Princess Alexandra of Denmark on March 10th 1863 at St.
George's Chapel in Windsor, the border being composed of alternating
wreaths featuring the Price of Wales symbolic Plume of Feathers
and laurel wreaths, supporting columns on both sides of the piece
appear to be Windsor Castle, lions rampant at each corner facing
the center medallion of three fleur de lis, 23 inches square.
Excellent condition.
Estimate:$2,000-3,000
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Lot 462
Group of Collectors' Textiles
Comprising two uncut Chinese sleeve bands on green silk with metallic
embroidery, four gold epaulettes with bouillon, an 18th century
quilted silk embroidered ecclesiastical panel, 10 x 17 1/2 inches,
a 16th century applique of St. Francis with hand painted face, Northern
European, an 18th century polychrome Italian filet strip, 7 x 22
inches, 1860-1880 purple moire handkerchief case with metallic embroidery
and pearls on cover, a blue silk Chinese sleeve band with metallic
embroidery, an 1860s paisley shawl with turn-back, some moth damage,
an extraordinary peacock embroidered net applique, 1880 - 1900,
7 x 20 inches, and an 1850s chartreuse silk bonnet ribbon, 7 x 24
inches.
Estimate:$800-1,000
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