Offering Two Centuries of Fashion History by the World's Legendary Couturiers

Including the West Looks East Collection Being Sold to Benefit Mosaic Foundation's Tele-Medicine Initiative Linking Children's National Medical Center of Washington, DC to North Africa

On Thursday, November 17, 2005 at 10am, Doyle New York will hold an auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories showcasing two centuries of fashion history. Offering an extensive selection of dresses, suits and ensembles, the sale will also include important costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, as well as American, European and Asian textiles.

The public is invited to the exhibition on view from Saturday, November 12 through Tuesday, November 15. Doyle is located at 175 East 87th Street in Manhattan.

The November 17 auction offers an historical array representing the caprices of fashion and fashionable tastes. Highlights include designs from the estate of Suzanne Godart Cella, as well as by European couturiers Worth, Poiret, Fortuny, Chanel, and Balenciaga, while American design is represented by Galanos, Norell, Trigere, and Stephen Sprouse, among others. From a private collection are twenty lots of early 1970s Yves Saint Laurent rive gauche menswear, augmented by early Armani and Westwood Savage and Pirates for men.

Textiles range from the sublime to the psychedelic, comprising an important collection of laces gathered by Margaret Taylor Johnston, the foremost lace maven of the early 20th century, a rare and fine example of an Appenzel mid 19th century lace commemorative handkerchief, and an extensive collection of Emilio Pucci "couture for the home," including Rosenthal porcelains. A portfolio of Cecil Beaton photographs and Nina Ricci costume designs depict the elegant aesthete, Alexis, Baron de Rede, at the sensational 1951 Bestegui Ball in Venice.

Accessories include an exceptional range of Hermes bags, including the gift for the woman who has everything - an Hermes Rouge H matte crocodile birkin with pavediamond lock and clasp. Other noteworthy offerings include hats, shoes and the quintessential Manolo Blahnick black crocodile stiletto boots. Costume jewelry features extravagant designs by Chanel, Coppola e Toppo, Moini, and Kenneth Lane, among others.

The West Looks East Collection comprises 29 lots of contemporary couture donated by the world's most prominent designers. Each look exemplifies the designer's personal homage to the rich historical influences of traditional Arab design on contemporary Western fashion. For more information on the West Looks East Collection, click here.

Thursday, November 17, 2005 at

Saturday, November 12, 10am - 5pm
Sunday, November 13, Noon - 5pm
Monday, November 14, 10am - 6pm
Tuesday, November 15, 10am - 2pm

Clair Watson, Director of Couture, 212-427-4141, ext. 603, couture@DoyleNewYork.com

Subscriptions Department, 212-427-4141, ext. 257, subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com
View the online catalogue

Louis LeB. Webre, Vice President, Marketing and Media, 212-427-4141, ext 232, louis@DoyleNewYork.com
Images and interviews are available upon request.


Lot 40
Worth Deep Iris Coupe des Velours Silk Chiffon Gown
French, circa 1896
Serpentine floral and foliate motif, the fitted bodice with applique banded purple dyed Chantilly lace trimming the neckline and overlaying sleeve cap concluding in steel bead tassels front and back, embroidered with sequin, seed and faceted beads, ecru Alencon lace bib, band collar, glove length balloon sleeve with elbow shaped cuff, pleated chiffon cummerbund waist with passementarie embroidered frog medallion at center back with silk braid ball and seed bead tassles, the trained bell-shaped bustle skirt with hip stitched pleats, double banded Chantilly lace inserted with applique at hem, rouched chiffon trimming on hem of lilac crepe back satin underskirt, size 8, labeled: C.Worth and numbered 85854.
Estimate: $10,000-12,000

This gown was given to the elderly consignor by her great aunt, a textile teacher on the West Coast, who in turn was given it by the mother of one of her pupils for use in a lesson. The information that accompanied the gown was that it belonged to Louisa Morgan Satterlee, the eldest daughter of of J. Pierpoint Morgan. What is known apart from the fact that she regularly travelled to Paris to be fitted by Worth, is that Louisa was born on March 10, 1866 and therefore she would have been in her early 30's when wearing the gown. In addition she is described as tall and rather large boned. Both facts are consistent with the style and size of this beautiful design.

Lot 39
Paul Poiret Garnet Silk Velvet Robe Shakespeare
French, mid 1920s
Referencing the medieval, dropped peaked waistline girded by plaited metallic gold cord concluding in velvet pompom, set-in fluted sleeve with cuff point revealing gold lame lining, bodice draped to center front seam, deep V-neckline front and back, gold lame modified shawl collar overlapping to faux bow at back, gathered skirt with handkerchief hem piped in gold lame, unlined, size 6, labeled: Paul Poiret a Paris and linen tape: 72993/Mme.White/Helene/R. Shakespeare.
Estimate: $4,000-6,000

Lot 36
Fortuny Stenciled Silk Velvet Aba
Italian, 1920s
Of dark green, gold and silver in a Renaissance inspired large scale thistle and pomegranate design, lined in taupe silk, unlabeled.
Estimate: $8,000-10,000

Lot 51
Christian Dior Fan Asymmetrical Gown
ZigZag Collection, French, 1948
Of black wool crepe, the draped surplice skirt with dramatic wing paniers on the left side, the V-neckline bodice with flip back lapel, short kimono sleeve with gusset, dusty rose voided silk velvet with floral pattern inset applied as modified bra over double layered tulle boned foundation, gros de Londres bias cummerbund, size 8, labeled: Christian Dior/Paris/Made in Paris.
This dress was shown at the Costume Institute Christian Dior show in 1997.
See Keenan, Dior in Vogue, p.51 and Golbin, Fashion Designers, p.55.
Estimate: $6,000-8,000

Lot 49
Balenciaga Black Silk Tissue Taffeta Dress
French, circa 1951
The bodice girded with draped panel fastening at right back, wide draped straps, the malleable multiform airy bubble skirt self doubled waistline-to-waistline along center of shirred panel insert at hem creating a modified harem hem, large self-doubled panier pouf bow at right front waist, size 6, labeled: Balenciaga/10 Avenue George V Paris/ and tape label: H0537.
See Caroline Rennolds Milbank, Couture, p.322. for same with different bodice.
Estimate: $2,500-3,500

Lot 84
Chanel Chevron Tweed Dress Suit

French, 1960s
In marled autumnal copper tones flecked with dove gray, the sleeveless princess line short dress with ruffle peplum at hip, faux pocket flap either side on bodice, the cardigan coat with narrow collar, four flap patch pockets, each edge with cast-off stitch trim in self yarn, beige silk lining, brown buttons with gilt-metal centers, size 6, labeled: Chanel, and tape label: 37138.
Each in very good condition.
Estimate: $3,000-5,000

Lot 292
Yves Saint Laurent Men's Garnet Leather Pants and Silk Cossack Shirt
French, 1970s
The pants pleated, 32 inch waist, the shirt piped in scarlet, band collar with surplice closure, 42 inch chest, each labeled: Yves Saint Laurent/rive gauche.
The first with some discoloration along edges, the second excellent.
Estimate: $900-1,200

Stephen Sprouse Handpainted Cop's Jacket

American, 1984
Made for the Andy Warhol Factory, white leather with day-glo crosses, male and female symbols, dated, size 42 inches, unsigned.
Good condition, sleeve ends worn, discolored ground.

Lot 154
Sprouse Sequinned Rock Band Mini Dress

American, 1988
Strapless elasticated off-the-shoulder neckline with turned down panel, day-glo yellow ground with polychromatic label motif, embroidered overall with clear plastic sequins, size 6, labeled: Stephen Sprouse.
Excellent condition.

Lot 160
Versace Couture Bondage Dress

Italian, Fall 1992
Black wool and silk challis, the two triangular breast panels with leather cuffs and Medusa button secured by channel stitched leather and fabric straps girding torso, pencil skirt with leather waistband and Medusa medallion, size 8/10, labeled: Gianni Versace/Couture.
Excellent condition.
One of only eight made, this lot is sold with the original Versace catalog Collezione Donna Autunno-Inverno 1992-1993 photographed by Irving Penn and is featured adorning Naomi Campbell, p.101 and 113.

Lot 252
Hermes Rouge H Crocodile Birkin with Pave Diamonds
Souple, palladium hardware, original covered lock and key sheath, after market 166 pave diamonds on front of each 14 kt. white gold closure plate and 310 pave diamonds on additional lock in H motif, G color, VS clarity, total 14 cts., 35 x 25 x 18 cm, marked: Hermes/Paris/Made in France.
Estimate: $30,000-40,000

Lot 261
Paulette Bottle Handbag
French, 1950s
Of black leather with gilt-metal trim and cork faux stopper, the interior with mirror and two pockets, 14 x 6 inches, labeled: Paulette/Made in France.
Very good condition, some tarnish and mirror discolored.

Left to right

Lot 337
Pucci Vivara Rosenthal Vase
Italian, 1960-77
Porcelain cylinder, pinks, grays, metallic gold and gray, with Emilio, 3 1/2 x 7 1/4 inches, marked: Emilio Pucci/Rosenthal/Germany/Studio Line. Excellent condition.

Lot 339
Pucci Palm Leaf Print Rosenthal Vase
Italian, 1960-77
Porcelain cylinder, orange, reds and blues, with Emilio, 3 1/4 x 14 inches, marked: Rosenthal/Germany/Studio Line. Excellent condition.

Lot 338
Pucci Stylized African Print Rosenthal Vase
Italian, 1960-77
Porcelain cylinder, polychromatic harlequin pattern with Emilio, 2 1/2 x 9 1/4 inches, marked: Rosenthal/Germany/Studio Line/7820. Excellent condition.


Lot 334
Pucci Wool Carpet
Italian, 1969-70
In the Vivera pattern, from the original carpet collection, blue water tones, manufactured by Dandolo & Primi, hand-tufted wool, signed twice Emilio in wool, 6 x 9 feet.
In good condition, some spotting, one area at one signature crushed.
This is the original carpet used in the main room of the flagship boutique on 64th and Madison.

Lot 382
Yves Saint Laurent La Vilaine Lulu Comic Book
Claude Tchou, 1967, No. 000143.
His only foray into publishing, the story is a satire on the entourage surrounding a couturier in the 1950s. Only 500 of this original deluxe version were published.
Very good condition, one page with small tear.

Lot 383
Line Vautrin Convex Sun Mirror
France, 1960s
Talosel with amber and black mirrored glass, 12 inches diameter, 1 inch high, signed to verso: Line Vautrin X.
Good condition, some glass cracked and missing.
See cover Patrick Mauries, Line Vautrin: Miroirs for same in blue.

Lot 394
Roger Jean-Pierre Wide Collier and Chandelier Earclips

French, circa 1961
Round faceted prong set rhinestones, rivoli cut citrines, gilt-metal chain links, 5 x 16 inches, marked: France.
Excellent condition.

Lot 456
Chanel Gilt-Metal Fish Skeleton Belt
French, 1993
33 inches, marked: Chanel/Made in France/93.
Excellent condition.

Lot 429
Gripoix for Chanel Byzantine Medallion Bracelet
French, 1983
Six twisted strands of faux baroque pearls, the square gilt-metal medallion inset with rhinestones and cross motif in red and green pate de verre, 7 x 2 inches, marked: Chanel/1983; Together with similar oval Chanel earrings. 1 1/2 inches, marked: Chanel/Made in France.
The first in excellent condition, one rhinestone missing from earring.

Lot 404
Trifari Butterfly Collar

American, 1960s
Gilt-metal wire with large red enamel butterfly pendant, 16 inches, pendant 4 x 3 1/2 inches, marked: Trifari.
Excellent condition.

Lot 451
Iradj Moini Articulated Opulent Flower Collar
Five flowers with petals of turquoise cabochons and clear and citrine faceted rhinestones, centered by same and mauve glass cabochons, antiqued silver metal chain, wire and prong set closed settings, 3 1/2 x 18 inches, marked: Iradj Moini.
Excellent condition.

Lot 470
Extraordinary Appenzell Lace Commemorative Handkerchief

Switzerland, 1850-1875
Masterfully embroidered in whitework and almost totally reversible, most probably in honor of the royal wedding of Edward, Prince of Wales, to Princess Alexandra of Denmark on March 10th 1863 at St. George's Chapel in Windsor, the border being composed of alternating wreaths featuring the Price of Wales symbolic Plume of Feathers and laurel wreaths, supporting columns on both sides of the piece appear to be Windsor Castle, lions rampant at each corner facing the center medallion of three fleur de lis, 23 inches square.
Excellent condition.

Lot 462
Group of Collectors' Textiles
Comprising two uncut Chinese sleeve bands on green silk with metallic embroidery, four gold epaulettes with bouillon, an 18th century quilted silk embroidered ecclesiastical panel, 10 x 17 1/2 inches, a 16th century applique of St. Francis with hand painted face, Northern European, an 18th century polychrome Italian filet strip, 7 x 22 inches, 1860-1880 purple moire handkerchief case with metallic embroidery and pearls on cover, a blue silk Chinese sleeve band with metallic embroidery, an 1860s paisley shawl with turn-back, some moth damage, an extraordinary peacock embroidered net applique, 1880 - 1900, 7 x 20 inches, and an 1850s chartreuse silk bonnet ribbon, 7 x 24 inches.