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AUCTION
HIGHLIGHTS
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THE
COLLECTION OF THE MARQUESA DE SAN DAMIÁN
Doyle
New York is delighted to offer at auction exquisite couture from
the private collection of the Marquesa de San Damian. Dating predominantly
from the 1960s, the seventeen lots evoke the charmed lifestyle
of an international hostess and reflect a keen and discerning
eye – an acuity which also came into play in her role as
avid markswomen of some renown. She traveled between New York
City and Europe depending on the season, to Paris for the collections,
to Italy to buy Pucci and Valentino, to Madrid for Rodriguez'
famous embroidered gowns, confidently picking the best from each
collection. Her husband, the Marqués, was a show jumper
who participated in three Olympics for Spain having won the King
George Cup at the early age of 19. The Collection of the Marquesa
de San Damian comprised lots 2119-2135.
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Lot
2131
Balenciaga Vibrant Pistachio Curled Ostrich Feather Evening Coat
French, circa 1965
Cardigan coat of lime tulle with jewel neck and bracelet length
kimono sleeves sewn overall with pieces of flat curled ostrich feathers
resembling fiddle head ferns in subtle hues of pistachio green,
size 6, labeled: Balenciaga/10 Av. George V/Paris.
Sold for $8,365
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Lot
2122
Pucci Couture Elaborate Beaded Cocktail Dress
Italian, early 1960s
The underlying slip style dress of pastel printed silk chiffon over
supporting layers, the print a geometric patchwork of large rectangles,
each of a different color with matching vermiculate seed bead embroidery
overall, each with its own self contained foliate design elaborately
embroidered with numerous types of sequins, beads and faceted stones
in a cornucopia of pastel shades, each divided by a scrolling vine
design similarly embroidered, scalloped hem, lined with china silk
with jacquard design Emilio, size 6, labeled: Emilio Pucci/Firenze.
Sold for $7,930
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Lot
2124
Important Givenchy Backless Bubble Dress
French, Fall/Winter 1958, # 2323
Of black silk faille, the sleeveless bodice with jewel neckline
and waistline darts at front, the back a nude triangle, each point
of which marked by a pertinent self bow, the full skirt bubble seamed
to form inset rear panel of intensely gathered faille between waistline
bows, size 4, labeled: Givenchy and tape label: 130308L
(?)
See Hamish Bowles, Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years 2001,
p.22 for a picture of her wearing a pink American copy of this dress.
Sold for $3,883
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Lot
2121
Valentino Couture Peek-A-Boo Gown
Italian, 1961
Demi empire low scoop neck bodice, sleeveless, densely embroidered
with small coral bugle beads, flowerheads of pearlized faceted marquise
stones, silver and clear rhinestones, silk floss and metallic thread
accents, the bodice back with triangular cutout, slender skirt of
rust silk crepe with partial overskirt, size 4/6, labeled: Valentino/Roma.
Sold for $3,286
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Lot
2135
Patou Feather Embroidered and Applied Gown
French, circa 1981
Of silk organza over pale aquamarine crepe backed silk satin, the
one shoulder sheath embroidered with black and silver bugle beads
and sequins in a feather design with an occasional black tipped
silver coque feather becoming a dense application of same toward
the hem with corresponding asymmetrical decrease in embroidery,
size 4, labeled: Jean Patou/Paris.
Property from the Collection of the Marquesa de San Damian
Sold for $2,987
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THE
PERSONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION OF PAULINE TRIGÈRE (1908 - 2002)
"I believe my clothes were elegant because
they made women feel confident."
During her more than sixty year career, Pauline Trigere had the
confidence to follow this dictum. She never imposed her own style
or ideas. She believed that "every woman had to have at least
one garment so perfect that she'd want to wear it one year or
five years later." On her way to defining the perfect dress she
became a seminal figure in American fashion, with the Trigere
headquarters at 550 Seventh Avenue, the most prestigious address
in the fashion industry. Numerous honors were bestowed upon her,
including three Coty Awards, as well as induction to the Coty
Hall of Fame, the Council of Fashion Designer's Lifetime Achievement
Award, the Neiman Marcus Award, the Fashion Walk of Fame, and
the Légion d'Honneur, France's highest national order.
Pauline
Trigere was known as an intellectual designer for her chic tailoring
and innovative ideas. She draped the fabric directly on the model
and cut freehand in the tradition of Vionnet, Lanvin and Chanel.
Over the years, style icons such as the Duchess of Windsor, Lauren
Bacall, Bette Davis, Kitty Carlisle Hart and Lena Horne all collected
Trigere. Patricia Neal's wardrobe in Breakfast at Tiffany's was
Trigere, and Trigere designs continue to make Hollywood appearances
at red carpet ceremonies.
Pauline
Trigere's clothes were enduring. "Building a wardrobe is
like collecting paintings," she said. "Your choices should be
careful and personal and should reflect your taste, not just for
a season, but for years to come." Doyle New York is pleased
to offer a selection of unique designs from her estate. She collected
these items because they incorporated her own deceptively simple
iconography such as pantsuits, fur trim, jeweled bras, and handkerchief
point hems, and others were cherished treasures. The Collection
comprised lots 2040-2052. These were the designs that she kept
and wore. "I like evolution, quality, classicism," she said. "I
think it's fun to go to your closet and find an old friend."
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Lot 2049
Pauline Trigere's Canvas Trigere Coat
American, 1973
Ecru ground printed in columns of repeating black letters that spell
out her name, straight cut, side vents, black vinyl lining to lapels
of notched collar, buttoned epaulet on left shoulder, side seam
pockets, four vinyl covered round buttons, knee length, size 8,
labeled: Pauline Trigere
Very good condition, some distress to vinyl.
This coat was featured in Wordrobe, the Fall 1997 Costume Institute
Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art curated by Richard Martin,
and photographed in The New York Times review of the exhibit, p.29,
Friday, September 12, 1997.
Sold for $4,780
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Lot
2041
Pauline Trigere Nude Silk Satin Halter Evening Dress
American, 1950
With molded bodice, band collar in back evolving to high molded
collar in front, ten gore calf length flounce skirt faced with self
fabric, embroidered randomly overall with small faux pearls and
prong set clear rhinestones, size 8, tape label: 1950.
Ms. Trigere made this dress for herself to receive the highly prestigious
Neiman-Marcus Award in 1950. It is tagged MU22, representing
its inventory number in her Museum Collection.
Property from the Museum Collection of Pauline Trigere
Sold for $2,987
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COUTURE
FROM OTHER OWNERS
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Lot 2038
Christian Dior Smoke Silk Faille Ballgown
Attributed to Yves San Laurent, French, Autumn-Winter 1956
The bodice with low V-neckline draped either side of bustline into
self bow knot, three-quarter length kimono sleeve, trapeze skirt
with stiffened deliberate one sided central dart, full fitted foundation
attached only at front bow knot, four layers of petticoat each with
double band of horsehair reinforcement, the outer of organza, the
rest tulle, with voluminous stole of full width faille fringed at
ends, size 4, labeled: Christian Dior/Paris/Automne-Hiver 1956/82373/
and tape label: 82373/S.c.c. Bergdorf Goodman/Robe Musique-de-Nuit-/Bertha.
and Made in France.
This dress was photographed for Harper's Bazaar, October 17, 1956
on the model Suzy Parker by Richard Avedon.
Sold for $15,535
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Lot
2015
Exquisite Chanel Black Silk Lace Evening Dress
French, late 1920s
The chemise dress of Chantilly style lace over black crepe de chine,
scoop neckline with attached loose asymmetrical bodice layer, ribbon
bow on right shoulder, low waistline marked by satin sash with long
ribboned bow at back, the lace overskirt flared and decorated with
ribbon arrows each side rear radiating from back waist, asymmetrical
hem dipping front to back, underskirt hem trimmed in lace, size
6, labeled: Chanel
Sold for $13,145.
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Lot
2065
Norell Pink Silk Dahlia Coat
American, 1967
Cardigan coat with jewel neckline, long set in sleeves, of multi
layered pink silk organza, silk taffeta lining, covered overall
with silk millinery dahlias in white and shades of pink, from shell
to deep azalea, size 8, labeled: Norman Norell for I. Magnin.
Sold for $7,767
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Lot
2007
Liberty & Co. Marion Visiting Coat
English, 1905
From the Aesthetic Dress period, Directoire style, of black Orion
satin softly constructed with lambswool padding through torso and
long sleeves, the sleeves shirred at cap and cuff, wide square pilgrim
style collar, cuffs and soft high waisted belt of ecru satin with
concentric rows of embroidered black silk floss and clear glass
seed beads, each with a medieval motif border in same, surplice
closure with three round star embroidered satin buttons on left
side front, creme silk satin lining, size 8, labeled: Liberty
& Co/London & Paris.
Sold for $7,767
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Lot
2018
Poiret Rich Silk Crepe de Chine Late Day Dress
French, mid 1920s
The long sleeved chemise underdress in deep magenta with a mushroom
pleated sleeveless overdress sewn in wide bands of red fuchsia centering
a band of blue fuchsia, the cuffed sleeves in corresponding colors,
a deep magenta front tab elaborately embroidered with gold thread
running from neck to hem and dissecting a wide low belt of same,
size 6, labeled: Paul Poiret a Paris and linen tape: 69699
M. White/Helene Tervenche(?).
Sold for $7,170
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Lot
2030
Jean Desses Lighter Shades of Pink Gown
French, 1950s
Of draped silk chiffon, strapless hand stay stitched bodice, full
skirt with harem hem, four shades radiating from whisper pink to
rose pink from left waist to top right bodice and down to right
hip, the rays reflected in skirt so left side is same pink as left
bodice, skirt hand stay stitched in arc from left hip to right waist,
semicircle of whisper pink chiffon twisted, draped across bodice
front, stitched to fall over left shoulder as train, size 2/4, labeled:
Jean Desses.
Sold for $5,975
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Lot
2078
The Big Ones for 68 Paper Dress
American, 1968
Silk screen on synthetic paper, made as a promotional item for Universal
Studios, the A-line dress in polychrome print of various movie stars
and their movie titles, including Elizabeth Taylor, Vanessa Redgrave,
Richard Burton, Oliver Reed, Marlon Brando, Claudia Cardinali.
Sold for $5,185
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Lot 2144
Ungaro Couture Wedding Dress
French, Summer 1988
Diagonally draped torso of white silk taffeta with bias organza
neckline ruffle and short puff sleeve at right side of ruffled layers
of point d'esprit, satin and slubbed organza, similar treatment
at asymmetrical hemline, innermost slubbed organza ruffle extends
into sweeping circular train, size 6, labeled: Emanuel Ungaro/Couture/Paris
and tape label: 9255/30.6.88.
Sold for $4,575
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Lot
2191
Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Navy Linen Gown
Mistral # 61, French, Summer 1991
The short sleeved bodice with standaway boat neckline and a separate
large ornate gilt-metal carved and chased pendant brooch at center
front, the skirt floor length at back and sides, cutaway and shirred
peplum style at front to reveal gold faille gathered knee length
inner skirt, gold faille lining, size 6/8, labeled: Christian
Lacroix/Paris/ and tape label 90218.
Sold for $3,585
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Lot
2053
Pierre Cardin Bull's-Eye Halter Skirt
French, 1960s
Of heavy black wool twill, the mini A-line skirt with only a center
back seam, crisscross suspenders buttoned onto waistline and hooking
behind neck, bull's-eye of black self fabric and white vinyl applique
at the X, size 4/6, labeled: Pierre Cardin/Paris/New York.
Sold for $3,585
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Lot
2067
Yves Saint Laurent Couture "Le Smoking"
French, 1960s
Of black silk satin, the single button jacket with exaggerated notch
collar and horizontal hip tab pockets and chest pocket, two-piece
sleeve with three menswear buttons and handworked buttonholes, black
crepe back satin lining, the tapered unlined pants with front pleats
and fly, size 6, labeled: Yves Saint Laurent/Made in France/28296.
Sold for $2,688
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Lot
2215
Loro Piana Chinchilla Throw
Italian
Backed in charcoal gray cashmere and bordered by 2 1/2 inch black
seude band, 60 x 78 inches, labeled: Loro Piana/Made in Italy.
Sold for $14,340
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Lot
2281
Hermes Alligator Sac Malette
1950s
Of mahogany alligator skin, with hinged compartment at base, gilt-metal
hardware accents, and initials 'PW' on front tab, 13 x 13 inches,
labeled: Hermes-Paris/24 FgStHonore.
Sold for $7,767
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Lot
2398
Louis Vuitton Steamer Trunk
Monogramed canvas, LV stamped leather trim, wood bands, brass fittings,
lateral sides stamped in red Madame Da Gama/New York/U.S.A., creme
canvas lined interior, quilted lid, three pull out storage trays,
lid interior has saffron labels: Bought from John Wanamaker/New
York/Philadelphia and Louis Vuitton 787797 Paris/70 Champs
Elysees/149 New Bond Street/London/Nice/Cannes/Vichy, size 36
x 21 x 23 inches.
Sold for $6,710
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Lot
2280
Rare Elsa Peretti Handcrafted Ivory and Coral Kabuki Bag
American, 1970s
The black leather rectangular pouch referencing a hand puppet and
attached at base to an ivory dolls head with coral eyes, an inset
sterling hinged lid container at scalp, interior mirror, black leather
shoulder strap, hinge marked: 9/6 and 2, 15 x 7 inches.
Sold for $5,676
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Lot
2293
Kieselstein-Cord Alligator Handbag
Black and 18 kt. gold fittings; in the shape of alligator heads
on the handle and closure, and of claws on the base, optional shoulder
strap, 10 x 4 x 7 inches, labeled: Barry Kieselstein-Cord/C. B.
Kieselstein-Cord 1991 International Copyright On All Design Ornaments.
See Anna Johnson, Handbags; The Power of the Purse, p.379.
Sold for $5,377
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Lot
2287
Hermes Brown Crocodile Kelly Bag
With gilt-metal closure and fittings, lock, 13 x 91/2 inches, labeled:
Hermes/Paris/Blind Stamp A.
Sold for $5,377
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