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FINE VINTAGE COUTURE ON THE AUCTION BLOCK

Doyle New York's Highly Anticipated Auction of Vintage Fashion, Costume Jewelry and Accessories Was Held on April 9, 2003

Doyle New York Celebrates 20 Years of Vintage Fashion at Auction: 1983–2003

Couture Exhibition Slide Show

On April 9, 2003, Doyle New York held an auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories offering hundreds of creations by the world's legendary couturiers. In addition to the extensive selection of important vintage dresses, suits and ensembles, the sale offered fine costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, as well as a selection of American, European and Asian textiles. A feature of the sale was a single-owner collection of classic designs by American couturier Norman Norell, including a number of his signature mermaid dresses from the 1960s, all of which were in pristine condition. Also featured was the costume jewelry collection of legendary chanteuse and film actress Lena Horne. With hundreds of bidders from across America and abroad competing in the salesroom, on the telephones, and via absentee and Internet bids, the auction grossed $400,564 with 96% of the lots selling by value.

Doyle New York pioneered the auction category of couture in 1983 with the collection of socialite Hope Hampton, and over the last twenty years has grown to become the world's premier auctioneers of important vintage couture and accessories. Fashion designers, Hollywood celebrities, museum curators and prominent social figures eagerly anticipate Doyle's semiannual sales.

Last fall, luxury retailer Saks Fifth Avenue celebrated the enduring artistry of vintage fashion in the windows of its New York flagship store which showcased gowns from Doyle's couture auction. Saks also hosted a series of "Vintage Couture Caravan" appraisal days with specialists from Doyle who provided evaluations for fine vintage couture at Saks stores in New York, Chicago, Houston and Beverly Hills. More

Doyle New York's next auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories is scheduled for Fall 2003.

INFORMATION
Couture Department, 212-427-4141, ext. 208, couture@DoyleNewYork.com

CATALOGUE
Subscriptions Department, 212-427-4141, ext. 257, subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com

MEDIA CONTACT
Louis LeB. Webre, Vice President, Marketing and Media, 212-427-4141, ext 232, louis@DoyleNewYork.com
Images and interviews are available upon request.

AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS

 

COUTURE

Lot 615
Yves Saint Laurent Sequined Mini Dress

African Collection, French, 1967 
The straight shift of blue chiffon over nude silk, with long sleeves, decorated with zigzag pattern bands worked in overlapping iridescent sequins at mid torso and hip level, size 6, labeled: Yves Saint Laurent/Made in France, no. 012353.
See: Yves Saint Laurent, Images of Design, pp.58, 59.
Sold for $10,157


Lot 554
Rare La Multirobe Puzzle Dress
French, 1960s
Approximately two hundred fifty chocolate brown vinyl puzzle pieces to design a dress of your choice; directions and 'robe K' box included.
Sold for $8,365


Lot 588
Norell Mermaid Dress
American, 1965
Purple silk jersey, with allover sequin decoration, long tight sleeves, band neck, demi-empire waist, size 4-6, labeled: Clair #405.
Sold for $4,481


Lot 527
Jacques Fath Day Suit
French 1950s
Suit of olive green and gray tweed, three-quarter length sleeves, with two button bell cuffs, Peter Pan collar and bell closure and mid-calf skirt, size 2, labeled: Jacques Fath/Paris.
Sold for $3,883


Lot 587
Norell Mermaid Dress
American, 1967
Bottle green, with allover sequins, long sweater sleeves, band neckline, size 6.
Sold for $3,346


Lot 623
Pierre Balmain Embroidered Ball Gown
French, late 1950s
Of ivory duchesse satin, strapless, with bodice cuff, princess line, the skirt sewn with self covered buttons down the full length, the skirt wide and smooth in front and billowing fuller at the back, the bodice and left side of skirt embroidered with elaborate three-dimensional pink roses with green leaves growing on silver metallic vinery, size 6, labeled: Pierre Balmain/Paris; together with a long crinoline slip.
Sold for $2,987


Lot 622
Christian Dior Blush Pink Satin Evening Gown
French, 1957 
Strapless, with self belt at natural waist, the wrap skirt draped and caught up in a swag with bows at waist and knee level, open at front, asymmetrical hemline, size 6, labeled: Christian Dior/Paris/Printemps-Ete 1957, no. 86755. 
Sold for $2,868


Lot 665
Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Scarf Dress
American, 1970s
Iridescent olive stretch gown with attached tie-dye flowing scarf, size 4.
Sold for $2,688


COATS

Lot 926
Ben Thylan Full Length Sable Coat
Large open notch collar, two side pockets and hook closure, size 8-10, labeled: Ben Thylan/New York. 
Sold for $13,145


Lot 658
Michaele Vollbrach Blanket Evening Coat
1970s
Multicolored browns and beige striped Mexican motif, with a sequined figure.
Sold for $2,629


FASHION MEMORABILIA

Lot 888
Charles James Dress Form
Circa 1952
Natural linen; stamped: Charles James and The Smaller, the cast iron base marked: New York Model Form Co.
Sold for $5,975


HANDBAGS AND LUGGAGE

Lot 884
Hermes Tan Alligator Kelly Bag
French, mid 1960s
With gilt-metal fittings, covered lock and key sheath, labeled: Hermes Paris/Made In France. Bottom width 32 cm.
Sold for $9,560


Lot 880
Hermes Pink Crocodile Shoulder Bag
With gilt-metal circular clasp, labeled: Hermes/Paris/Made in France. 9 inches x 5 1/2 inches.
Sold for $4,481


Lot 883
Hermes Navy Calf Kelly Bag
Circa 1980
With gilt-metal fittings and lock, key sheath, labeled: Hermes/Paris/Made in France. Bottom width 32 cm.
Sold for $3,585


Lot 933
Louis Vuitton Steamer Trunk
Early 20th century
Monogram canvas LV, labeled: Louis Vuitton/ Paris Nice London. 44 inches x 22 1/2 inches x 22 1/2 inches.
The Estate of Roger L. and Christine G. Stevens, Washington, DC
Sold for $3,286


HATS

Lot 701
Bes-Ben Surreal Owl Hat
American, 1940s
Brown felt cap with salmon pink owls on each side with spray of feathers, labeled: Bes-Ben/Made in Chicago.
Sold for $2,868


Lot 696
Bes-Ben Bird Hat
American, 1940s
Red, black and brown large bird resting on small red straw circles, labeled: Bes-Ben/Made in Chicago.
Sold for $2,390


COSTUME JEWELRY

Lot 768
French Necklace
Composed of large faux citrines with drop-shaped faux citrines, signed: Made in France.
Sold for $2,987


Lot 735
Two Chanel Faux Tortoise Shell and Multicolored Stone Cuffs 
1985
Each set with assorted faux emerald and ruby cabochons and assorted emerald-cut and round rhinestones, each marked: Chanel.
Property of Lena Horne
Sold for $2,390


Lot 798
Iradj Moini Green and Pink Glass Three Strand Necklace
Each strand composed of large green glass disks set to the center with pink glass cabochons, further enhanced by assorted pear-shaped rhinestones, marked: Iradj Moini.
Sold for $2,270


Lot 742
Wiener Werkstatte 'Fountain' Brooch
Designed by Kolomon Moser, circa 1910.
Sold for $2,270