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Drawing of Carrie Donovan by Al Hirschfeld


Runway Cuffs. Estate of Carrie Donovan.


Paul Poiret Military Style Evening Coat

(left) Traina-Norell Floral Chine Cocktail Dress. Estimate: $500-700.
(right) Christian Dior Red Silk Cocktail Dress, French, 1957. Estimate: $800-1,200.

Michaele Vollbrach Quilted Kimono Coat, American, circa 1978. Estimate: $3,000 - 5,000.

Roy Lichtenstein Silk Screened Shirt, American, 1979. Estimate: $800 - 1,200.

(left) Versace Jeweled Gator Print Dress, Italian, circa 1992. Estimate: $2,000 - 3,000.
(right) Versace Pastel Beaded and Jeweled Dress, Italian, circa 1991. Estimate: $3,000 - 5,000.

Versace Jeweled and Beaded Shawl.

Louis Vuitton Travel Desk, French, 1930s. Estimate: $3,000 - 5,000.



 

DOYLE NEW YORK ANNOUNCES MAY FASHION WEEK
Important Couture, Costume Jewelry and Accessories
Go on the Auction Block on May 22

Featuring Property from the Estate of Carrie Donovan

AUCTION: WEDNESDAY, MAY 22, 2002 AT 10AM

Fashion designers, Hollywood celebrities, museum curators and prominent social figures will gather at Doyle New York when two centuries of fashion history go on the auction block on Wednesday, May 22 at 10am. The public is invited to the exhibition on view from Saturday, May 18 through Monday, May 20. Doyle is located at 175 East 87th Street in Manhattan.

The opulent selection of gowns by the world's most legendary couturiers will be complemented by a luxurious array of important costume jewelry by Chanel and Miriam Haskell, handbags by Hermès and Gucci, and trunks by Louis Vuitton, as well as scarves, accessories and a panoply of textiles from around the world. A special section of the auction, lots 1-62, will be devoted to property from the estate of Fashion Editor Carrie Donovan. Highlights of this section include two whimsical caricature drawings of Ms. Donovan by Al Hirschfeld.

Jan Reeder and Linda Donahue
The auction offers the opportunity to bid on an unusual number of fashion rarities. Among these are a large group of exquisite American Empire period gowns including a rare pelisse, a pair of late 18th century silk brocade shoes with clogs, a three peice knit accessory ensemble, circa 1930, by Chanel, and a colorful 1979 silk-screened blouse by Contemporary artist Roy Lichtenstein. Further rare material is a group of 27 letters hand written in French in the 1930s and '40s by Mariano Fortuny, probably to the painter Rene Piot. Of interest to film enthusiasts will be an opulent beaded dress, circa 1926, from the wardrobe of the great silent film star Theda Bara, and the sensational fringed beaded gown worn by Winona Ryder at the 1994 Academy Awards ceremony. Lovers of the color red will delight in an array of brilliant pieces by designers such as Scassi, Trigere, Halston, Dior and Montana. Other highlights will be an evening gown by Adrian printed with lambs frolicking in a fenced-in meadow, and a striking 1917 military-style velvet and fur-trimmed evening coat of blue silk designed by Paul Poiret.

INFORMATION AND CATALOGUES:
Bidders my contact Jan Reeder or Linda Donahue at (212) 427-4141 ext. 208 or email couture@DoyleNewYork.com. To order a printed catalogue, please call Subscriptions (212) 427-4141, ext. 257, or email subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com. The free Internet version of the auction catalogue will be available prior to the sale in the "Catalogues" section of our Web site

MEDIA CONTACT:
Louis LeB. Webre, Vice President, Marketing and Media,
212-427-4141, ext 232 or email louis@DoyleNewYork.com .
Images and interviews are available upon request.

 


AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS

PAUL POIRET MILITARY STYLE EVENING COAT
French, circa 1917

Estimate: $12,000-18,000

This extraordinary coat by legendary designer Paul Poiret is made of French blue ribbed silk, and features turned back cuffs held up with Oriental style silk loops and gilt-metal buttons. The collar, cuffs and deep hem are trimmed with black velvet and gold metallic cord, and the collar is further trimmed with beaver. It is labeled Paul Poiret a Paris and Marshall Field & Co./Chicago.

Paul Poiret served in the French military during World War I. His major contribution to the war effort was to create a design for the overcoats worn by French soldiers that minimized the amount of fabric needed by cutting the front and back from one piece of material, to which the sleeves were then sewn. Cut in the same manner, the coat in the auction is possibly a fashionable version of that design. It may also be part of the original collection Poiret produced in 1917 to bring to the U.S. for American stores to copy and sell. That project never went further than the production of the original models. This coat may be part of that collection, although further research is necessary to determine whether the originals ever came to the United States.


20TH CENTURY COUTURE

Among the other highlights is a selection of early 1990s Versace Couture jeweled dresses and shawls. An interesting fashion rarity is a 1979 silk blouse by Contemporary artist Roy Lichtenstein silk-screened with colorful diagonal stripes and Lichtenstein's signature dots. This limited edition blouse, numbered 83/100, was created for Artist Space in New York. Other designers of note include Norell, Courreges, Rudi Gernreich and Pierre Cardin, as well as creations from the 1980s by Thierry Mugler and Christian LaCroix.


COLLECTION OF EARLY 19TH CENTURY AMERICAN EMPIRE CLOTHING

Recalling images of Jane Austen's heroines is a significant group of early 19th century American Empire clothing descended from a prominent New England family. This remarkable collection features an array of finely embroidered muslin dresses, and a lovely pelisse (light-weight coat) of silvery blue silk adorned with braids and buttons in military fashion. Among the offerings are bonnets, shawls, men's linen shirts, 18th century damask shoes and other items in extraordinary condition.


THE ESTATE OF CARRIE DONOVAN

Doyle New York is honored to bring to auction property from the estate of one of the fashion world's legendary figures, Carrie Donovan. A 1950 graduate of Parsons School of Design, Ms. Donovan's career of more than thirty years took her from a post as fashion journalist for The New York Times, to being an editor for Vogue, Harper's Baazar and The New York Times Magazine. Wearing her trademark pearls and oversized glasses, she began a second career in 1997 with a series of television commercials for Old Navy.

Highlighting the collection are two pen and ink caricature drawings of Ms. Donovan by Al Hirschfeld, as well as an assortment of accessories and costume jewelry, featuring impressive, oversized runway cuffs encrusted with faux pearls. The selection of memorabilia includes photographs and letters from friends and celebrities, among them Liza Minnelli, Nancy Reagan and Halston.


COSTUME JEWELRY

The auction offers a glittering trove of costume jewelry from a variety of consignors. Among the treasures are a large number of important designs by Miriam Haskell, both individual pieces and suites. In addition to the spectacular necklaces and earrings, collectors will find early examples of Haskell's highly-prized wrap bracelets.


1930s LOUIS VUITTON TRAVEL DESK

A rarity among the selection of Louis Vuitton trunks and cases is a travel desk from the 1930s in almost pristine condition. Measuring approximately 18 x 23 x 12, this remarkable desk features an interior fitted with an assortment of drawers and compartments (est. $3,000-5,000).


FORTUNY LETTERS

Fashion scholars will be intrigued by a collection of 27 letters written by designer Mariano Fortuny in the 1930s and 40s to a Parisian colleague. Some of the letters bear notations by Fortuny's wife, Henriette. See lot 514.


TEXTILES

The sale will offer a large array of American, European and Asian textiles, linens and lace. A feature of this section will be a group of Chinese dragon robes, and embroideries from India and Eastern Europe.

Drawing of Carrie Donovan© Al Hirschfeld
Reproduced with special arrangement with Hirschfeld's exclusive representative, The Margo Feiden Galleries Ltd., New York.