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click images for
larger view

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Drawing
of Carrie Donovan
by Al Hirschfeld

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Runway Cuffs. Estate of Carrie Donovan.

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Paul
Poiret Military Style Evening Coat

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(left)
Traina-Norell Floral Chine Cocktail Dress. Estimate: $500-700.
(right) Christian Dior Red Silk Cocktail Dress, French, 1957.
Estimate: $800-1,200.

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Michaele
Vollbrach Quilted Kimono Coat, American, circa 1978. Estimate:
$3,000 - 5,000.

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Roy
Lichtenstein Silk Screened Shirt, American, 1979. Estimate: $800
- 1,200.

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(left)
Versace Jeweled Gator Print Dress, Italian, circa 1992. Estimate:
$2,000 - 3,000.
(right) Versace Pastel Beaded and Jeweled Dress, Italian, circa
1991. Estimate: $3,000 - 5,000.

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Versace
Jeweled and Beaded Shawl.

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Louis
Vuitton Travel Desk, French, 1930s. Estimate: $3,000 - 5,000.

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DOYLE
NEW YORK ANNOUNCES MAY FASHION WEEK
Important Couture, Costume Jewelry and Accessories
Go on the Auction Block on May 22
Featuring Property from the Estate of Carrie
Donovan
AUCTION:
WEDNESDAY, MAY 22, 2002 AT 10AM
Fashion
designers, Hollywood celebrities, museum curators and prominent
social figures will gather at Doyle New York when two centuries
of fashion history go on the auction block on Wednesday, May
22 at 10am. The public is invited to the exhibition
on view from Saturday, May 18
through Monday, May 20. Doyle
is located at 175 East 87th Street in Manhattan.
The
opulent selection of gowns by the world's most legendary couturiers
will be complemented by a luxurious array of important costume
jewelry by Chanel and Miriam Haskell, handbags
by Hermès and Gucci, and trunks by Louis
Vuitton, as well as scarves, accessories and a panoply
of textiles from around the world. A special section of the
auction, lots 1-62, will be devoted to property from the estate
of Fashion Editor Carrie Donovan. Highlights of this
section include two whimsical caricature drawings of Ms. Donovan
by Al Hirschfeld.
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Jan
Reeder and Linda Donahue
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The
auction offers the opportunity to bid on an unusual number of
fashion rarities. Among these are a large group of exquisite
American Empire period gowns including a rare pelisse,
a pair of late 18th century silk brocade shoes with clogs,
a three peice knit accessory ensemble, circa 1930, by Chanel,
and a colorful 1979 silk-screened blouse by Contemporary
artist Roy Lichtenstein. Further rare material is a group
of 27 letters hand written in French in the 1930s and '40s by
Mariano Fortuny, probably to the painter Rene Piot. Of
interest to film enthusiasts will be an opulent beaded dress,
circa 1926, from the wardrobe of the great silent film star
Theda Bara, and the sensational fringed beaded gown worn
by Winona Ryder at the 1994 Academy Awards ceremony.
Lovers of the color red will delight in an array of brilliant
pieces by designers such as Scassi, Trigere, Halston,
Dior and Montana. Other highlights will be an
evening gown by Adrian printed with lambs frolicking
in a fenced-in meadow, and a striking 1917 military-style velvet
and fur-trimmed evening coat of blue silk designed by Paul
Poiret.
INFORMATION
AND CATALOGUES:
Bidders my contact Jan Reeder or Linda Donahue at
(212) 427-4141 ext. 208 or email couture@DoyleNewYork.com.
To order a printed catalogue, please call Subscriptions (212)
427-4141, ext. 257, or email subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com.
The free Internet version of the auction catalogue will be
available prior to the sale in the "Catalogues"
section of our Web site
MEDIA
CONTACT:
Louis LeB. Webre, Vice President, Marketing and Media,
212-427-4141, ext 232 or email louis@DoyleNewYork.com
. Images
and interviews are available upon request.
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AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS
PAUL
POIRET MILITARY STYLE EVENING COAT
French, circa 1917
Estimate: $12,000-18,000
This
extraordinary coat by legendary designer Paul Poiret is
made of French blue ribbed silk, and features turned back
cuffs held up with Oriental style silk loops and gilt-metal
buttons. The collar, cuffs and deep hem are trimmed with
black velvet and gold metallic cord, and the collar is further
trimmed with beaver. It is labeled Paul Poiret a Paris and
Marshall Field & Co./Chicago.
Paul
Poiret served in the French military during World War I.
His major contribution to the war effort was to create a
design for the overcoats worn by French soldiers that minimized
the amount of fabric needed by cutting the front and back
from one piece of material, to which the sleeves were then
sewn. Cut in the same manner, the coat in the auction is
possibly a fashionable version of that design. It may also
be part of the original collection Poiret produced in 1917
to bring to the U.S. for American stores to copy and sell.
That project never went further than the production of the
original models. This coat may be part of that collection,
although further research is necessary to determine whether
the originals ever came to the United States.
20TH CENTURY COUTURE
Among the other highlights is a selection of early 1990s
Versace Couture jeweled dresses and shawls. An interesting
fashion rarity is a 1979 silk blouse by Contemporary artist
Roy Lichtenstein silk-screened with colorful diagonal
stripes and Lichtenstein's signature dots. This limited
edition blouse, numbered 83/100, was created for Artist
Space in New York. Other designers of note include Norell,
Courreges, Rudi Gernreich and Pierre Cardin,
as well as creations from the 1980s by Thierry Mugler
and Christian LaCroix.
COLLECTION OF EARLY 19TH CENTURY AMERICAN
EMPIRE CLOTHING
Recalling images of Jane Austen's heroines is a significant
group of early 19th century American Empire clothing descended
from a prominent New England family. This remarkable collection
features an array of finely embroidered muslin dresses,
and a lovely pelisse (light-weight coat) of silvery blue
silk adorned with braids and buttons in military fashion.
Among the offerings are bonnets, shawls, men's linen
shirts, 18th century damask shoes and other items in extraordinary
condition.
THE ESTATE OF CARRIE DONOVAN
Doyle
New York is honored to bring to auction property from the
estate of one of the fashion world's legendary figures,
Carrie Donovan. A 1950 graduate of Parsons School
of Design, Ms. Donovan's career of more than thirty years
took her from a post as fashion journalist for The New
York Times, to being an editor for Vogue, Harper's
Baazar and The New York Times Magazine. Wearing
her trademark pearls and oversized glasses, she began a
second career in 1997 with a series of television commercials
for Old Navy.
Highlighting
the collection are two pen and ink caricature drawings of
Ms. Donovan by Al Hirschfeld, as well as an assortment
of accessories and costume jewelry, featuring impressive,
oversized runway cuffs encrusted with faux
pearls. The selection of memorabilia includes photographs
and letters from friends and celebrities, among them Liza
Minnelli, Nancy Reagan and Halston.
COSTUME JEWELRY
The
auction offers a glittering trove of costume jewelry from
a variety of consignors. Among the treasures are a large
number of important designs by Miriam Haskell, both
individual pieces and suites. In addition to the spectacular
necklaces and earrings, collectors will find early examples
of Haskell's highly-prized wrap bracelets.
1930s LOUIS VUITTON TRAVEL DESK
A
rarity among the selection of Louis Vuitton trunks
and cases is a travel desk from the 1930s in almost pristine
condition. Measuring approximately 18 x 23 x 12, this remarkable
desk features an interior fitted with an assortment of drawers
and compartments (est. $3,000-5,000).
FORTUNY LETTERS
Fashion
scholars will be intrigued by a collection of 27 letters
written by designer Mariano Fortuny in the 1930s and 40s
to a Parisian colleague. Some of the letters bear notations
by Fortuny's wife, Henriette. See lot 514.
TEXTILES
The
sale will offer a large array of American, European and
Asian textiles, linens and lace. A feature of this section
will be a group of Chinese dragon robes, and embroideries
from India and Eastern Europe.
Drawing
of Carrie Donovan©
Al Hirschfeld
Reproduced with special arrangement with Hirschfeld's exclusive
representative, The Margo Feiden Galleries Ltd., New York.
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